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lslam 



The Qurans of Kotri

Does the world's biggest collection of Quran manuscripts really lie in Sindh?

 
By Momin Bullo

The ancient settlement of Kotri Muhammad Kabir in the Noshehro Feroz district is said to have been a hub of religious and cultural activity up until the 10th century Hijri. Makhdoom Muhammad Kabir, who belonged to the Naqshbandi Suhrawardi school of thought, was the pioneer of this township. During its heyday, sufi saints like Hazrat Shah Abdul Latif Bhittai visited it frequently, and it became a meeting ground of sorts for others seeking metaphysical rather than material enlightenment.

Before Makhdoom Mohammad Kabir came on the scene and transformed it into a township of worth, Kotri was called "Sogandh", a Persian word meaning one lakh twenty five thousand. It was the most densely populated township on the left side of the Indus river in that period, and some of the objects found in its ruins still speak of its beauty and grandeur.

With the dawn of the 21st century, the currents of urbanisation and apathy towards historic monuments have become stronger and now threaten the preservation of our cultural heritage. The fear is that the significant town of Kotri Kabir will soon be relegated to the footnotes of history. Kotri is centred around an ancient shrine, the dargah of the incumbent or the Sajjada Nashin. The current incumbent, Makhdoom Ghaus Muhammad Gohar has, however, done a wonderful job of collecting, preserving and conserving ancient manuscripts of the Quran as well as religious tomes which were used in religious instruction in the days of yore. The learned Pir of Kotri Kabir is a direct descendant of the first Makhdoom, Mohammed Kabir, and he has lived up to his illustrious forefather's reputation as a devoted man of religion and of letters. Today, the Quran collection of the Kabir family lies preserved in the small library besides the Makhdoom's grand Haveli.

Some time ago, I happened to make a brief stop in Kotri Kabir on my way from Sukkur to Hyderabad. I drove straight to the Dargah,which lies a short distance from the main National Highway. After passing through the narrow streets of Kotri Kabir I finally reached the big Otaq -cum-Library-cum-museum of Makhdoom Ghaus Muhammad.

As I came out of my car, the attendant of the Otaq or guest house, received me by bowing to my knees as a mark of respect for a guest. This came as no surprise, given the Sindhi tradition of hospitality but what really amazed me was the experience of stepping into Makhdoom Ghaus's library. I found more than a dozen cupboards full of books duly catalogued and a lot of old manuscripts lying on the floor waiting to be repaired and catalogued. Makhdoom Ghaus claimed it was the biggest collection of Islamic tracts and manuscripts in Asia, possibly the world, with manuscripts dating back to the 13th century Hijri.

Shrine or dargah of Kotri Mohammad Kabir

The next pleasant surprise was that the Kabir family have not chosen to hog their treasure but to share it with the public. The library was opened for researchers in 1984 after it was formally named the Al-Kabir Academy. Makhdoom Sahib pointed his finger towards a row of four cupboards along the wall, which contained as many 400 Quranic manuscripts of various periods, sizes, shapes and layouts. The oldest amongst them was one which was inscribed with the name of its calligrapher, Faqir Sujawal Solhan (202 Hijri). The writer was a Sindhi scholar from the same area and Makhdoom Ghaus claimed it was Asia's oldest Quranic manuscript.

I chose to sit on the floor in the middle of the library and Makhdoom Sahib, along with a few of his retainers, started placing ancient copies of the Quran on a wooden platform before me. A 10x4 inch manuscript, which was the smallest in the lot, was again obviously the work of a master calligrapher and consisted of 552 pages. Another copy, hardly 2 inches shorter then the above was 534 pages, but didn't contain the exact date or the name of the calligrapher. Though uncertain, Makhdoom Ghaus was of the view that both of these copies belonged to Sindh and had been written by a Sindhi Scholar.
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A "Bazuband" or armband of silver containing a miniscule copy of a Quran was an astonishing piece. This unique Bazuband was worn by members of Muslim royal families when going to war. The precise date of its origin is not documented, but one can say with certainty that it belongs to the Mughal period.

Regretably, the poor condition of the books meant that only a few contained the name of their calligraphers. The face leafs have been torn off, and except for a few, most manuscripts are incomplete and in a dilapidated condition. Two Persian translated scripts were prominent for their size (47x31 and 39x24 inches) but the year of their publication was not known.

An ancient armband or bazuband worn by princes going to war

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